LEVI’S: Print the Legend
After the Gold Rush, but at the Right Place and Time
By Jim Kempton
Levi’s 501 jeans, the shared uniform of cowboys, bikers and surfers alike, are iconic. The rugged, blue-denim, five-pocket, ultra-utilitarian workwear pant, with its orange stitching, copper-riveted stress points and metal button fly-front are famous worldwide. The printed leather label on the right rear waistband—depicting two horses being goaded in a futile attempt to tear apart a pair—are as effective branding in the 21st century as they were when Levi Strauss & Company was granted its patent on their design and construction. Levi’s are certainly legendary, but how much of what people think they know is actually fact?
In John Ford’s classic movie, “The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance” there’s a line that sums up some of this romance. “This is the West, sir, "a newspaper reporter explains. “When the legend becomes fact, print the legend.”
OK, so let’s take a look. Legend number one: Levi’s jeans were the favored work pants of gold rush miners because they were so tough. Fact is, Levi Strauss likely did head West, to San Francisco in 1853, to open up a West Coast version of his family’s New York dry goods business—selling textiles, some clothing, handkerchiefs, etc.—because the Gold Rush has spurred business opportunity in the city. But young Levi himself wasn’t a tailor and didn’t begin making jeans until 1872, by which time the Gold Rush was pretty much over.
Legend number two: Levi’s were the favored work pants of cowboys in the golden age of the cattle drives. Nah, not likely, although they may well have been the favored workwear of the Hollywood movie crews (including directors and wardrobe dept.) who were making westerns in the 1940’s, ‘50s and ‘60s. In fact the real “wild west” was rather short, 1856 to 1886, after which railroads brought cattle to markets and the cowboy era was done and dusted. What’s more, real cowboys were more likely to wear castoff woollen pants from Civil War uniforms, tucked into their boots and covered with leather chaps to save their legs from being shredded by sagebrush, cactus and other thorny bushes.
Legend number three: The term “jeans” is derived from canvas sailcloth originating in the Italian port of Genoa. Nope, Levi’s were never made out of sailcloth. OK, legend three-and-a-half: Jeans were made of denim from the French town of Nimes (so, from Nimes, de Nimes, equals “denim.” No, sorry; yet again a factual corruption. The textile “serge de Nimes” may have been sometimes dyed blue, but it was traditionally made of wool and silk, not cotton twill.
Legend number four: Levi Strauss was a genius clothing designer whose creation has stood the test of 200 years. Well, he was clearly a good businessman, but the real genius of Levis 501s was more likely Jacob Davis, a tailor from Reno, Nevada. In a letter to Strauss, his textile supplier, Davis disclosed the unique way he made pants using stress-point rivets to make them last longer. Davis wanted to patent this new idea, he wrote, but needed a business partner with money to get the idea off the ground. Strauss saw the potential. The patent was granted to Jacob Davis and Levi Strauss & Company on May 20, 1873. And the legendary blue jeans were born.
Fact is, the real history of Levi’s largely went up in smoke in 1906 when the great San Francisco earthquake started a huge fire that burned down Levi’s HQ. All of the company’s archives were destroyed, leaving an almost clean slate for a cultural legend to be re-born.
In his early 1960s book “Modern Surfing Around The World,” John Severson, the founder of Surfer magazine wrote: “The uniform of the surfer is … Levi’s and a white Tee-shirt, preferably with an advertisement on the back.”
When the legend becomes fact, print the legend.
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https://zealy.io/cw/sonicg/questboard/9d1735e0-4d91-4f89-8736-cdbd4bda6649/7c414146-eaef-47bc-9e8a-84394648c2ff
https://zealy.io/cw/sonicg/questboard/9d1735e0-4d91-4f89-8736-cdbd4bda6649/53879c0e-036b-48cb-85e8-984c52a3f13c
https://zealy.io/cw/sonicg/questboard/9d1735e0-4d91-4f89-8736-cdbd4bda6649/b6aa9574-ee02-4b8d-881f-b25295a62aeb
https://zealy.io/cw/sonicg/questboard/9d1735e0-4d91-4f89-8736-cdbd4bda6649/e01794ca-e3bc-412f-99b7-138c70ed88e5
https://zealy.io/cw/sonicg/questboard/9d1735e0-4d91-4f89-8736-cdbd4bda6649/262fc8d4-8164-42e4-a44e-d941c486f8e4
https://zealy.io/cw/sonicg/questboard/9d1735e0-4d91-4f89-8736-cdbd4bda6649/f0dda7ad-a3b8-4643-b83a-cfb4164085a8
https://zealy.io/cw/sonicg/questboard/9d1735e0-4d91-4f89-8736-cdbd4bda6649/1448dc42-8cdd-46ab-91c0-edf42c4d5663
https://zealy.io/cw/sonicg/questboard/9d1735e0-4d91-4f89-8736-cdbd4bda6649/385c8732-dbbe-431d-83e8-96aa24175744
https://zealy.io/cw/sonicg/questboard/9d1735e0-4d91-4f89-8736-cdbd4bda6649/68a67629-e88d-4d02-9d9a-50e34b8b27fe
https://zealy.io/cw/nosfer/questboard/2f98259b-d817-4bc1-b04d-1d3cdb3886e0/634a42a8-a099-4aea-99aa-047b6ef7e944
https://zealy.io/cw/nosfer/questboard/2f98259b-d817-4bc1-b04d-1d3cdb3886e0/3b028c66-ce8f-43c2-a3f2-f53079ebba81
https://zealy.io/cw/nosfer/questboard/2f98259b-d817-4bc1-b04d-1d3cdb3886e0/b7d2ea18-76a8-4480-ab0c-e41ab2e3731f
https://zealy.io/cw/nosfer/questboard/2f98259b-d817-4bc1-b04d-1d3cdb3886e0/b26cd494-2fdc-4ebb-8836-aa63b28e178a
https://zealy.io/cw/nosfer/questboard/2f98259b-d817-4bc1-b04d-1d3cdb3886e0/d3294708-0b1a-4786-b754-da331fdce071
https://zealy.io/cw/nosfer/questboard/2f98259b-d817-4bc1-b04d-1d3cdb3886e0/2b6089ab-42a6-4b6c-9c80-bb5a6952d53d
https://zealy.io/cw/nosfer/questboard/2f98259b-d817-4bc1-b04d-1d3cdb3886e0/bb50f3d2-9589-48e8-a552-301a955407e7
https://zealy.io/cw/nosfer/questboard/2f98259b-d817-4bc1-b04d-1d3cdb3886e0/d44dde5d-771d-4827-a94f-3969bdb95954
https://zealy.io/cw/nosfer/questboard/2f98259b-d817-4bc1-b04d-1d3cdb3886e0/26001d8e-a9d7-4d30-bf17-52e0256d1511
https://zealy.io/cw/nosfer/questboard/2f98259b-d817-4bc1-b04d-1d3cdb3886e0/2d26534f-0356-4c65-8e40-df532a7b6d86
https://zealy.io/cw/vlq1zz/questboard/ac3896ac-2d3f-4827-bf72-45bd9537e76e/adaac9f6-d12b-4862-8888-ed390a5f9211
https://zealy.io/cw/vlq1zz/questboard/ac3896ac-2d3f-4827-bf72-45bd9537e76e/242cfdf9-498d-4102-a528-68ed3e48eb4b
https://zealy.io/cw/vlq1zz/questboard/ac3896ac-2d3f-4827-bf72-45bd9537e76e/4f838bc3-856c-4f44-8dec-797be55622f4
https://zealy.io/cw/vlq1zz/questboard/ac3896ac-2d3f-4827-bf72-45bd9537e76e/787432d2-8a70-4f2b-8e9b-e466ede9bfab
https://zealy.io/cw/vlq1zz/questboard/ac3896ac-2d3f-4827-bf72-45bd9537e76e/7159df80-5ae9-4279-b409-5e5b9c8abc18
https://zealy.io/cw/vlq1zz/questboard/ac3896ac-2d3f-4827-bf72-45bd9537e76e/9ab9f636-1194-44e7-8fa1-c11ed59fd3cb
https://zealy.io/cw/vlq1zz/questboard/ac3896ac-2d3f-4827-bf72-45bd9537e76e/0a2f3279-2794-4f8d-b82a-22de50f060b9
https://zealy.io/cw/vlq1zz/questboard/ac3896ac-2d3f-4827-bf72-45bd9537e76e/bb3b1ae1-d46b-47b4-b547-57f236a48087
https://zealy.io/cw/vlq1zz/questboard/ac3896ac-2d3f-4827-bf72-45bd9537e76e/c13b147a-04ef-4e09-acac-cfa40b98b077
https://zealy.io/cw/vlq1zz/questboard/ac3896ac-2d3f-4827-bf72-45bd9537e76e/3294225f-c0c4-426b-bd0b-85ddfa366475
https://zealy.io/cw/x0t1wd/questboard/70210986-5c09-45a6-b6db-b3b5326d0668/4c01d164-d935-4d82-b021-f2dc1a583d0b
https://zealy.io/cw/x0t1wd/questboard/70210986-5c09-45a6-b6db-b3b5326d0668/00ca09cc-1f4e-4dc7-990a-38dfbd025a09
https://zealy.io/cw/x0t1wd/questboard/70210986-5c09-45a6-b6db-b3b5326d0668/47ea6a0a-5c43-4a74-8198-21d623aa20d2
https://zealy.io/cw/x0t1wd/questboard/70210986-5c09-45a6-b6db-b3b5326d0668/62cd14bb-8162-476b-846f-04232748ab43
https://zealy.io/cw/x0t1wd/questboard/70210986-5c09-45a6-b6db-b3b5326d0668/d1b9a23b-f92c-401e-bfbd-0b31185120ee
https://zealy.io/cw/x0t1wd/questboard/70210986-5c09-45a6-b6db-b3b5326d0668/3e52f654-8dc7-4532-9d9d-60298e34bffd
https://zealy.io/cw/x0t1wd/questboard/70210986-5c09-45a6-b6db-b3b5326d0668/ff918eda-ed2f-454c-8924-2ed5eab1e522
https://zealy.io/cw/x0t1wd/questboard/70210986-5c09-45a6-b6db-b3b5326d0668/cfe7e4b9-3414-40b7-8358-dfb2c19cabdc
https://zealy.io/cw/x0t1wd/questboard/70210986-5c09-45a6-b6db-b3b5326d0668/97b81038-a886-4c1a-b358-4a19fca016a4
https://zealy.io/cw/x0t1wd/questboard/70210986-5c09-45a6-b6db-b3b5326d0668/4312ee75-62b3-4ca9-a84d-bf7bdec709f2
https://zealy.io/cw/efljag/questboard/64d1fc24-b6aa-40d7-aaae-617d29aa75a0/9225e666-03c5-4902-879e-8295476d3946
https://zealy.io/cw/efljag/questboard/64d1fc24-b6aa-40d7-aaae-617d29aa75a0/6f93950e-c43b-41e6-8b35-3bda9a21a2e1
https://zealy.io/cw/efljag/questboard/64d1fc24-b6aa-40d7-aaae-617d29aa75a0/2535d83b-5504-401a-907e-87788e61f7b0
https://zealy.io/cw/efljag/questboard/64d1fc24-b6aa-40d7-aaae-617d29aa75a0/c9b5573a-fb89-4959-a0f8-b6bfdac09909
https://zealy.io/cw/efljag/questboard/64d1fc24-b6aa-40d7-aaae-617d29aa75a0/2553d2d8-cdc7-4e1b-bc4e-6fe3ba2df640
https://zealy.io/cw/efljag/questboard/64d1fc24-b6aa-40d7-aaae-617d29aa75a0/e0f13453-4254-467e-b250-928180d0809b
https://zealy.io/cw/efljag/questboard/64d1fc24-b6aa-40d7-aaae-617d29aa75a0/be01c2e8-2440-4811-bd6e-45c821dfb92b
https://zealy.io/cw/efljag/questboard/64d1fc24-b6aa-40d7-aaae-617d29aa75a0/51832f15-042f-4290-87c4-fa90b34aa19c
https://zealy.io/cw/efljag/questboard/64d1fc24-b6aa-40d7-aaae-617d29aa75a0/792a19bd-1c2c-4e46-8fa8-8d13f6d4559b
https://zealy.io/cw/efljag/questboard/64d1fc24-b6aa-40d7-aaae-617d29aa75a0/27f86764-c96a-4afa-a365-5799ae04bd12
https://zealy.io/cw/janfkj/questboard/a0bdacaf-ae52-4cd9-8efc-379bbefc4f45/51bb9ab3-1bb3-454d-89e0-1fee6ad78796
https://zealy.io/cw/janfkj/questboard/a0bdacaf-ae52-4cd9-8efc-379bbefc4f45/d0a069a1-8660-466d-9e31-3a930d383eff
https://zealy.io/cw/janfkj/questboard/a0bdacaf-ae52-4cd9-8efc-379bbefc4f45/1c6734e4-2ce9-4de3-a92c-6d51f29bedbd
https://zealy.io/cw/janfkj/questboard/a0bdacaf-ae52-4cd9-8efc-379bbefc4f45/ee817519-9c11-43da-972e-7f95cb454e73
https://zealy.io/cw/janfkj/questboard/a0bdacaf-ae52-4cd9-8efc-379bbefc4f45/efc8089c-bb94-42b8-af77-0796b987d77c
https://zealy.io/cw/janfkj/questboard/a0bdacaf-ae52-4cd9-8efc-379bbefc4f45/1abf385b-46ee-473b-b5fa-13d19993fc1a
https://zealy.io/cw/janfkj/questboard/a0bdacaf-ae52-4cd9-8efc-379bbefc4f45/bffdee92-c22f-476e-85c1-27367ab4b4fd
https://zealy.io/cw/janfkj/questboard/a0bdacaf-ae52-4cd9-8efc-379bbefc4f45/9f2f9834-1ae9-476a-8618-91d30f3fc102
https://zealy.io/cw/janfkj/questboard/a0bdacaf-ae52-4cd9-8efc-379bbefc4f45/a08ebba9-7c5b-4647-be1e-45b11909b4f5
https://zealy.io/cw/janfkj/questboard/a0bdacaf-ae52-4cd9-8efc-379bbefc4f45/7bed818f-bee6-4d5b-b9d9-9801657d5fe9
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